Bon Voyage, Maestro

An Evening at Joël's

Las Vegas feels, at times, like an apparition. America's monument to excess is a bustling oasis rooted in its most arid Southwest corner; both unsustainable and impossible to resist. It's also an emerging mecca for foodies. The city imports what it lacks in terroir (just about everything) and its surfeit of upscale eateries speaks volumes to a rising cachet. Celebrity chefs Wolfgang Puck, Emeril Lagasse and Bobby Flay have already brought franchises to this epicurean paradise. Thomas Keller has a bistro here and Gordon Ramsay may soon follow. Still, among these luminaries, none shines as brightly as Joël Robuchon. Named Gault-Millau's Chef of the Century, the present-day paterfamilias of French cuisine is also Earth's most decorated cook (boasting a staggering 25 Michelin stars). Having famously retired from restaurants at age 51, Monsieur Robuchon's return – not only to the kitchen, but to North America – sent a current through the industry, elevating Vegas as a dining destination.

While thousands file nightly into MGM's neighboring “KA” theater, a privileged few can experience a culinary Cirque du Soleil right next door. Robuchon's team wows gourmands with high-wire acts, both in the master's workshop, L'Atelier and his adjacent flagship, Joël Robuchon at the Mansion. Artfully designed by Pierre-Yves Rochon, the Mansion exudes elegance, at once palatial and intimate. And though it rarely sees Robuchon's toque, the Chef's imprimatur surrounds. From a living tapestry of green ivy, to the central room's coral purple hues, guests enjoy an organic, relaxed cadence far from the machines and madding crowds.

Greeted warmly by the restaurant's urbane maître d', we floated through a foyer of chandeliers and calla lilies, into the Mansion proper. So began an evening at Joël's, where, for the next three hours visiting Vermonters dined like dignitaries. Having selected the prix fixe degustation, there was a palpable frisson as tins of black Oscetra caviar were placed before us. Executive Chef Claude Le-Tohic's amuse bouche featured neatly-aligned roe over beds of sweet Dungeness crab and fennel cream. Each bite delivered layers of smooth, nutty flavor, and for the first time we understood the premium placed on these delicate Sturgeon 'berries'. Befitting its reputation, each of the Mansion's courses was a novella. A bread cart arrived – the first of three mobile stations – bearing herbed focaccia, pain au lait, saffron loaves, and baked delights our mouths hadn't yet imagined. Butter, imported from Brittany, commanded its own valet and was literally shaved from a block, table-side. Our three-course tasting menu opened with stands of King crab, shelled over avocado. Flanking the rich crustacean were cauliflower shavings, which brought a bitter, vegetal contrast, while spice-dusted aioli rounded out this mouth-watering Picasso. At Joël's, detail is impeccable, presentation is paramount, but flavor is king. There are truffles at every turn, and decadent pairings meant to satisfy, rather than provoke.

Oenophiles will swoon over the Mansion's Grand Award-winning wine list. A bible of viticulture, it yields history on every page – with Robuchon's studious sommelier at the ready. Impossible to miss are the iconic 1947 Cheval Blanc ($24,000), or any of the scores of Grand Crus bottlings, which spring in such abundance one wonders if the MGM wasn't built simply to house Joël's cellar. We selected a modest, 2006 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Clos de l’Oratoire. Ripe and delicious, the Rhone's plum notes paired beautifully with Muscovy duck and veal cheek. The latter dish, dual medallions braised for hours in a light, aromatic Thai broth, arrived at our table nearly unadorned. Bright with lemongrass, the veal betrayed Robuchon's broadening Eastern influences, and collapsed under our forks with stunning tenderness. Each bite revealed succulent flavors from deep within the meat. Also spellbinding were rare filets of duck, pan-fried over sweet fig and seared foie gras. The dish was a revelation, and we mooned over its contrasting textures. Superbly articulated, these plates alone deserved stars, but each came accompanied by sides of the chef's pomme purée. Labor intensive and luxurious, Joël's prized potatoes are riced and then further strained through a tamis sieve. The resulting mash is gourmet, buttery bliss.

Service was deliberate, if unhurried, as wine captains and seasoned staff moved expertly about. We enjoyed no fewer than six stewards throughout the evening, in a sophisticated ballet that spoils the imagination. Having opted for the cheese course, in lieu of soup, we sat awestruck as yet another cart approached after our entrees were cleared. Of the kitchen's myriad cheeses, some (like a wheel of chevre, folded in chestnut leaves) appeared so young, they wept. Creamy wedges of Camembert, Roquefort, and Langres colored our plates, and still there were treats to come. Flush from an evening of indulgence, dessert was nearly lost on us. Flutes of cheesecake and opulent cocoa parfait stood half-eaten, while we settled into a buzz of satisfaction. At last, a trolley of Mignardises rolled in for the evening's finale. We sampled dark ginger chocolate, sweet ganache, and spun sugar. There were macaroons and petite confections that leaped out from some childhood dream and onto our palates.

Can dinner in Las Vegas really be thrilling? The tariff for this journey is steep, but as you leave the Mansion watch those exiting “KA” across the way. While both exuberant, you'll be the ones leaving with a bespoke box of candied jellies (a parting luxury for patrons). More likely to gamble on Boeuf Bourguignon than baccarat, our favorite tables in this town are the ones draped in white linen. Monsieur Robuchon owns the city's only Michelin 3-star rating; a prestige that eclipses even elite contemporaries like Le Cirque and Aureole. Incomparably extravagant, it remains an experience one must taste to believe. Don't take our word for it. Reservations are criminally easy to obtain (a measure of the city's culinary depth) so skip the Blackjack, and instead fête with some of America's finest haute cuisine. In a city built on mimicry, Joël Robuchon is a striking original.