72 Hours in Vermont

The Road Less Traveled

By Jarrett Berman

From its early abolitionist roots and prized dairy, to its stunning foliage and Olympic-class ski runs, Vermont is an American ideal. It is a land of striking color and expression, one which birthed Presidents Arthur and Coolidge, adopted poet Robert Frost and continues to produce iconoclasts like Ben & Jerry’s, Phish, and Burton Snowboards. Vermonters are farmers and artisans, and above all, wanderers – all of them stewards of this singularly green space. No surprise, then, that Vermont was recently christened “the West Coast of New England”. Tiny as it is, the state is a bona fide superstar. Bereft of billboards (outlawed in the 60s) and blessed by the tranquil waters of Lake Champlain, it’s comfortably distant from the congested Northeast Corridor. But it’s also near enough for weekend jaunts from Boston, Montreal, and New York City. Best of all, Vermont is an organic paradise. There’s much to do in this northern playground, without feeling like a tourist. Whether your agenda is relaxation, or adventure, the Green Mountain State can accommodate. Summers are spectacular and winters generous (or notorious, perhaps) at the 44th parallel, but Vermont owes its blue ribbon status to the fleeting days between late September and mid-October. Autumn is truly Vermont’s legacy to the world, drawing ‘flatlanders’ to its hills just as they begin to burn bright with crimson and gold.

Picturesque Montpelier is the state capital (America’s smallest), but Burlington is undeniably Vermont’s hub. Tucked in the northwest, on the shores of Champlain, this surprisingly cosmopolitan city acts twice its size – and marks the cornerstone of your fall tour. Consistently named one of America’s top towns, Burlington’s modest population (roughly 39,000) belies an abundance of activity. From the South End art hop to weekly farmer’s markets and a lakeside Latin festival, the tapestry of events is considerable. Bewitched by sunny afternoons and cool evenings, there’s a palpable skip in everyone’s step – so book accommodations downtown. Burlington is flush with B&Bs, like the storybook Willard Street Inn, with its French solarium and iron canopy beds. Each room features a private bath, with many offering Adirondack vistas from the Inn’s perch high on the hill. For unbeatable location and Yankee hospitality, stay at the Sunset House near the bottom of Main Street. Only steps from Church Street Marketplace and the bustling waterfront, this Queen Anne-style charmer puts guests close to the action. There’s also a newly renovated Hilton with stunning westerly views, and the usual smattering of Sheratons a few minutes from town, but Vermont defies convention, and so should you. A little adventure will pay dividends.

Day 1

Topped by the University of Vermont’s gothic Victorian spires, Burlington slopes precipitously into the sapphire waters of Lake Champlain. Named after 17th century French explorer Samuel de Champlain, America’s “sixth great lake” runs 110 miles from Canada to New York. Once a lumber and textile state, this freshwater corridor served for generations as Vermont’s conduit to the outside world – and Burlington’s coveted port was its Grand Central station. Twentieth century stewards have since transformed this resource from transportation hub to urban jewel; now a panoramic backdrop during your stay in the Queen City. Among its many trophies, Burlington boasts Church Street Marketplace; an award-winning, outdoor pedestrian mall that marks the city center. Start your morning over coffee and pastries at Penny Cluse Café. Only seconds from Church Street, locals line up daily for the freshly-baked banana bread, lathered with maple-walnut cream cheese. Satisfied, it’s time to explore Vermont’s famous promenade. Laden with cafes, boutiques, and street vendors, Church Street is a cornucopia of local color, all nestled within a 4-block stretch. Shoppers will swoon over handmade wares and jugs of maple syrup, but half the fun is the market’s surprising characters. One never knows what lurks ahead; perhaps a parade of nude cyclists, or a tightrope walker wowing the crowd. Between buskers and breakdancers, you can duck into Lake Champlain Chocolates for a mug of their rapturous Aztec cocoa. But save room for lunch, as some of New England’s best Chinese food is plated daily at A Single Pebble. Just steps from the shopping lanes, Pebble’s wafting garlic aromas are impossible to miss. Armed with inventive dishes like dry fried green beans and mock prawn, this is authentic Szechuan with a fanciful twist.

Work off those dumplings with a stroll down to verdant Waterfront Park, where sweeping lake and Adirondack views await. Families will love the ECHO Center, a state-of-the-art aquarium perched right on the pier, which showcases some of the Basin’s local wildlife. Watch indigenous sturgeon and turtles in lively, natural exhibits, while learning about the history of this amazing watershed. If you’re tempted to leave terra firma, now is the time to book passage on one of Burlington’s flagship vessels. Like the Spirit of Ethan Allen III; a 140-foot luxury liner which tours the lake daily. Or, sail the intimate Friend Ship – a classic schooner that’s ideal for tacking through cool waters while hunting for signs of “Champ”, Vermont’s amiable lake monster. Intrepid travelers can get even closer by slipping into kayaks at Waterfront Boat Rentals. Paddle out to Lone Rock, where you’ll explore hidden coves, then beach the boat for a hike under the Point’s internationally famous thrust fault. Nothing parches like a good paddle, and with more breweries per capita than anywhere in the country, Vermont is perfect for slaking that thirst. Head over to the Magic Hat Brewery in South Burlington for tours and spores (their word, not ours). While it sounds a bit dodgy, the hops here are of the highest order, and these self-proclaimed alchemists know how to mix a batch. Nothing satisfies like a cold pint of their apricot-flavored #9. Keep your eyes peeled west for an Adirondack sunset, while pondering the evening’s next meal. Gourmands will pine over Burlington’s eclectic restaurant scene – one of New England’s finest, for its size. Dip into L’Amante for heavenly tempura squash, smoky slices of grilled quail, and a staggering collection of Italian wines; or the chic and dimly lit Green Room, where savory duck confit quesadillas match effortlessly with one of a dozen martinis. Finish with a glass of Sunshine Vodka – distilled right here in Vermont. You’ll sleep well tonight.

Day 2

With its strong agrarian heritage and activist-rich citizenry, Vermont is a paragon of the localvore movement. Author Michael Pollan (The Omnivore’s Dilemma) acknowledged as much in a recent visit, lauding the state for its cooperative farming and abundance of organic produce. As food economies go, it doesn’t come much fresher. You’ll find LaPlatte River Angus is the beef of choice, while Arethusa arugula and Shadow Cross eggs are ubiquitous in markets and eateries alike. Rise and shine over breakfast at Magnolia – a fully organic café – where savvy patrons tuck into the Vermont omelet for a taste of locally sourced maple sausage, cheddar, and apples. Vegetarians, too, can satisfy their sweet tooth with Magnolia’s hand-swirled, cinnamon raisin French toast. On Saturdays, nearby City Hall Plaza hosts a farmers’ market that’s ideal for finding the freshest greens, cheeses and our favorite snack: The Nutty Vermonter’s Maple & Chipotle Triple Nut Butter. Grab some of this spicy spread for the ride, as today you’ll head south on Route 7 towards Shelburne Farms. Once an exclusive summer retreat for the Vanderbilt Webbs, this sprawling 1,400-acre estate is now a National Historic Landmark. Still, the working farm bears all the trappings of American nobility, replete with grand equestrian barns, epic panoramas, and one of the area’s finest restaurants, the Inn at Shelburne Farms. Call ahead for interactive exhibits that range from cheesemaking to bottle-feeding Brown Swiss calves. Then, check for an evening reservation at the Inn – as you’ll pass this way on the return trip to Burlington, and might fancy some grilled rabbit with duck-fat potatoes. Craft enthusiasts can also visit nearby Shelburne Museum, a diverse gallery of quilts, carousels, and some of the country’s premiere artists. But beware; kids will crane their necks as they pass the world-famous Vermont Teddy Bear Company. Only minutes away, this popular factory tour spotlights the cute and cuddly critters from stuffing to stitching – sure to please young and old alike.

Outdoor enthusiasts have countless ways to stretch their legs, as Route 7 buffets a sanctuary of rolling hills on either side. If the mood strikes, continue up to Shelburne Orchards, where apples in over a dozen varieties hang in wait. Handpick your favorites for a midday snack, along with a bottle of spicy Ginger Jack. The Orchard’s non-alcoholic brew packs more bite than a black bear and will seduce friends back home. Or, if gardening is your thing, prepare to pine over the East Coast’s largest selection of asters, golden rod, and other species, just down the road on the 6-acre Wildflower Farm. Afterward, duck into nearby Dakin Farm for free nibbles of cob-smoked ham and waxed cheddar. Stock up on watermelon pickles for mom, before continuing your cruise south into Middlebury. There, charming antique shops and the state’s best pale ale will surely seduce anyone with a taste for treasure. Grab a hoppy pint at Otter Creek Brewing Company before hitting the Robert Frost Wayside Trail. Ten miles east, this timeless hike through Ripton’s hills is annotated by some of the poet’s best work. Having chosen the road less traveled, you’ll soon see why America’s most revered wordsmith tapped the Green Mountains for inspiration. Vermont’s fall tapestry greets explorers at every turn; with fiery maples and exploding yellow birch that stretch in all directions. Everywhere deciduous flora looks ready to burst in sharp hues you’ve hardly imagined.

As light fades, return north to Addison, where (if you’re lucky) you’ll experience the perennial avian exodus through Dead Creek Wildlife Management Area. Comprising the migratory corridor from eastern Canada to the Chesapeake Bay, this wetland sanctuary draws tens of thousands of snow geese as they travel south for the winter. Be there by dusk for one of the state’s little-known spectacles. Or, for an unparalleled sunset, skip the birds and head to Charlotte for a quick summit of Mount Philo. Take in dreamy lake views, and then celebrate with a glass of peachy Conundrum Caymus at nearby Starry Night Cafe. The raspberry salad is light and distinctive, while crispy sautéed duck makes a perfect finish. Sun-kissed and well-fed, you’ll know firsthand why Vermont is the country’s gold standard in autumn drives.

Day 3

You’ve dipped in its cool waters and tasted its farm-fresh bounty, but we’ve saved what is, arguably, Vermont’s best for last. While most of us think pastoral landscape, anyone with a lick of French will tell you that Vermont means, quite literally, Green Mountains. Today you’ll journey to Stowe – the very heart of this state’s evergreen kingdom. Nestled under towering Mount Mansfield (Vermont’s highest peak, at 4,393 feet), the road to Stowe village is half the fun. First, fuel up with coffee and a gourmet French Dip at Sneakers Bistro in Winooski. The battered croissant, stuffed with scrambled eggs and ham, is a two-handed sandwich that’s sure to keep you motoring through the morning. Make your way to Route 15 East, winding lazily through rural Underhill, and drawing ever-nearer Mansfield’s imposing massif. Between stunning mountain views, you’ll pass custom lamp-makers and irresistible farm stands. Grab a gourd for grandma, before detouring to Boyden Valley Winery in Cambridge. Oh yes, oenophiles – thousands of miles from Napa – can find solace even in these northern climes! The fourth generation vineyard owes its harvest to rich soil outlying the nearby Lamoille River. Enjoy their fresh pâté, while sipping Cayuga – a hardy, white grape – then pick up a bottle of Boyden’s signature Ice wine for the journey home. Harvested in small batches at below 20 degrees Fahrenheit, this sugar-rich libation is excellent with sweets, or as dessert itself; a true Vermont specialty. Continue up Route 108 – affectionately known as the Notch Road – to the back side of Mansfield, where you’ll catch breathtaking alpine views while snaking through the mountain pass. The zigzag alone will keep drivers on their toes, and makes for the day’s first thrill.

Quaint though it seems, Stowe is a world-class resort town, ranked among the nation’s best in dining and outdoor activity. And while its fearsome Front Four won’t be open to skiers for another month or two, there’s plenty to explore in this small, deceptively active area. Whether it’s handmade furniture, blown glass, or custom jewelry, you’ll find the shopping here to be vintage Vermont. Indeed, no two stores are the same. As locals like to say: “Chains” are for tires in winter. After stocking up on paintings and country pottery, cool your heels at the Trapp Family Lodge – one of New England’s most treasured destinations. Home to Austria’s Von Trapp family (who famously inspired The Sound of Music) the Lodge offers relaxing meadow views and a delightfully European menu. Indulge in a late-morning brew and some spiced walnut linzertorte at their Austrian Tea Room, or munch on our favorite: veal bratwurst. There are also wine tastings through October – a fabulous way to brush up on your Côtes du Rhône. Of course, no visit to the nation’s dairy capital would be complete without a stop at Ben & Jerry’s famed ice cream factory, on Route 100 in neighboring Waterbury. Purveyors of super-premium flavors like Cherry Garcia, the headquarters hosts lighthearted 30-minute tours, seven days a week. So reward yourself with laughs and an après cone at their scoop shop. Seasonal purists can also nosh on sinful confections just down the road at Cold Hollow Cider Mill, where hot cinnamon-cider donuts and crisply-pressed apples are a true hallmark of autumn.

If you fancy a more robust outing, Stowe can oblige. With lifts running into October, and hiking trails open year-round, there are several ways to the roof of Vermont. Ascend by gondola to the Cliff House, for deck seating and twice-baked chevre soufflé at 3,600 feet. Then scramble to the summit itself, where even peregrine falcons soar below. A word of caution, though: New England’s weather at elevation is capricious – even in mild months – so pack a jacket and watch for fast moving clouds. Adrenaline junkies can raise the ante by riding the steeps of neighboring Spruce Peak, via the region’s only Alpine Slide. Parallel concrete chutes send thrill-seekers plunging nearly half a mile, in what’s undoubtedly the resort’s fastest descent (at least until snowfall). Still too tame? Why not grow wings for an hour and kiss the sky? For an unforgettable adventure, let Stowe Soaring pilot you on a breathless glider flight high above the scenic mountains. It may just prove to be the capstone of your trip. Not into heights? No problem. While daredevils play, those in need of pampering can slip into a robe and indulge for an afternoon at Stowe’s elite Top Notch Spa. Nothing whispers luxury like cold cosmos and a hot stone massage – and this oasis offers both. Call ahead for one of their signature treatments (like the blissful, 50-minute Hammam Foot Ritual), and learn to enjoy the great indoors.

No doubt famished, sojourn over to Hen of the Wood, which puts you conveniently on the road back to Burlington. Tucked beside a tumbling mountain brook, this refurbished 19th century grist mill exudes rustic elegance. Warm up with the roasted pumpkin soup, but don’t miss pan-seared gnocchi. Each tiny forkful is a rich marriage of sheep’s milk, red pepper, and pine nuts. Sophisticated diners can also choose to journey further north, where Richmond’s Kitchen Table promises excellent haute-country cuisine. Watercress salads with creamy Boucher and oversized slices of focaccia will have you dismissing fast food forever. This is what Vermont tastes like.

From its unmatched cheddars and bright maple foliage, to shimmering Lake Champlain, few states enjoy Vermont’s natural riches. Its bucolic landscape beckons year round, but is best experienced in autumn, when majestic Adirondack sunsets and the earth’s rich flavors linger like childhood memories. Vermont is an intrinsic piece of the American puzzle. It is the road less traveled – and traveling it makes all the difference.